Wednesday, September 16, 2009

Best-Kept Secret Eatery

If you ask a bunch of people if they’ve ever had lunch at Nico’s, chances are most of them would reply, “What restaurant? Where?”

Maybe that’s a good thing, because Nico’s at Pier 38 always has a big crowd at lunchtime. One of the first tenants to open at the planned Honolulu Fishing Village five years ago, Nico’s has become popular with those who work at or near Honolulu Harbor.

The food is excellent; “Nico” is Nicolas Chaize, the restaurant’s chef and namesake, who describes the menu as “French taste, Hawaiian style.”

I discovered the place quite by accident, attracted by a makeshift sign along Nimitz Highway announcing: “Nico’s. Open for Breakfast.” Being a breakfast guy, I wanted to try it out. Actually, the first time I checked it out, I was disappointed. You need to go up to the inside counter, order your food, wait for them to page you, then take it to the patio outside to eat. I was in the mood to be served that day, so we passed it up.

About a week later, we decided to give it a chance anyway. Was I surprised!

That day, I ordered pan-seared Opah (moonfish) with watercress cream sauce that was the bomb. Probably the best fish meal I’ve had in ages. Today equaled that experience, however. Their special was pan seared mahimahi with Tahitian lime and papaya salsa. I tell you, if I had to choose between the opah or the mahi, I’d still be trying to make up my mind.

So far, I’m 2 for 2, batting a thousand.

Check out the line that snaked from the dining patio to the order counter:


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